Monday, January 21, 2008
How Traditional Are Modern Traditional Delicacies?
In this era of speed many shortcuts are taken, many things are simplified, many things are considered petty, unnecessary, non-functional, and hence left out. This include traditional foods and delicacies.
Traditional foods that were prepared using specific procedure and process with specific ingredients mixed in specific proportions have been changed. The motivation is minimization of cost and maximization of profit. Can such foods deserve the label traditional? Kueh bahulu, a traditional Malay cookies are now produced in some large shopping complexes, using methods having little similarity with traditional process, and perhaps the ingredients too are simplified. Harder to get ingredients are replaced with ones that are easily found or readily available. Can they still be called kueh bahulu? Some kueh sampan use plastic-based wrappings instead of banana leaves. Do the products deserve the name kueh sampan?
In the absence of any standard or scheme for assuring authenticity it is not hard to guess the answer, especially if such label adds value to the goods. The effect is that the real traditional foods are forgotten and their rightful place occupied by modified 'modern traditional' foods. Future generation, who know nothing of it will regard it as such.
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